Perfectly Portofino
Updated: Jun 16
You've likely heard of Portofino, the crown jewel of Italy's Riviera. Its quaint setting has made it popular with the jet set as they park their yachts along the community's charming bay during the warmer months.
However, for those looking for a quieter time to visit the fabled location, winter time still allows for warm(ish) weather, sunny days and the really beautiful natural surroundings. Whatever your preferred time of year for visiting this lovely locale, let me show you what we saw on a picturesque December day.
When Ben and I visited our friends in the South of France in December 2023, we opted to add a side quest over to Genoa, Italy, home of focaccia bread and pesto. Does one need any other reason for a visit than those two things? (The answer is an obvious "no"). And because I like to optimize my proximity to locations, I figured our side quest to Genoa needed a separate side quest to Portofino, which was just what was needed to round out our trip to the Mediterranean during their off season.
Located along the Ligurian Sea, this delightful little community makes for a perfect day trip from Genoa. The driving time takes between 45 minutes to an hour, and you get a chance to see more of the stunning Ligurian coastline with its pastel hued buildings reflecting the citrusy color palette of burnt oranges, pomelo pinks and lemony yellows. While the road from Nice to Genoa is mostly enclosed tunnels, obscuring a lot of the views of the area, the drive from Genoa to Portofino is much more open, allowing for views like the following as you wind your way around the region's stunning coastline.
Once in Portofino, it's time to find parking. Most of the town's scenery is located on the shorefront, and the area is not particularly large. Because we were visiting on a winter day, we were able to secure at spot at the town's parking garage. Those visiting in busier times should note that parking would be an immense challenge and should plan to either arrive via the sea or perhaps with a hired driver.
I particularly enjoyed seeing the real local side of life immediately upon arriving in the village. Charming homes with their laundry hung out to dry being hit by the warm winter sun gave the impression that while this is a well known tourist destination, there is still a local life that takes place within its confines.
Because it was the off season, very few of the shops were open, but there were a few souvenir stores selling the usual wares. All of the high end designer stores, however, were not open on the day we visited. There were a number of restaurants and cafés open along the shoreline, so you could spend your time enjoying lunch on the lovely promenade if you wished.
It's only a short walk through the main part of town before you reach the harbor front.
There, you can really take in the scenery and admire all of the soft colors on the buildings, and imagine what life is like during the warmer months.
And if you're like us and stop by in December, you can also catch a sight of the town's beautiful Christmas tree, well positioned in the main square for all to see and admire.
Ben and I opted to walk around the waterfront, admiring the views and taking in the scenery. The following pictures reflect our stroll.
While it is hard to see in the picture below, there is a promenade located along the opposite shoreline, which is where you would find the cafés and restaurants still open during this time of year.
Though we wouldn't have time on this visit, you can also see Castello Brown on the hill opposite the port. You'll see some images a little further below of the view of the port from a part of the walk up the hill.
Further down the coastline, you can see how small communities are built upon the steep slopes of the hillsides beyond.
The pier we were standing on was being washed over by the tides, leaving a few remnants behind, like this local jellyfish.
Below, looking back towards the main square/harbor front.
Across the way, we spotted Villa Beatrice, a Belmond property. This villa can only be booked as a private buy-out, and if you're interested, I am happy to help make that happen. Or, you can book Belmond's Splendido or Splendido Mare right from the linked websites if you're looking for something in the area, but aren't ready to book out the entire villa.
We continued to walk along the shoreline, then started to head up the hill to view the city from a new perspective. Turns out, it's just as delightful!
It was time to start making our way back towards the main part of the town, and walk the quay/promenade by the restaurants. While we didn't stop to enjoy lunch here, I have to admit the setting is ideal for a meal on the sea any time of year.
As you walk, you eventually reach a gate that forces you to turn around, but it's still a nice place to take a stroll.
We took a few last glimpses of this fabled location before heading back to our car and back through the narrow shoreline road towards the larger community of Santa Margherita Ligure. The road passes by some attractive little buildings and coves, though there's not always a good place to park. Walking this road would be tricky due to its narrowness and lack of shoulder, though cycling might be the best option if you want to stop and admire the views more often.
Eventually, we found a place to stop and take in the scenery at Bau Bau Beach, as seen below.
Finally, we headed into Santa Margherita Ligure where we had lunch. Though I wasn't a travel advisor at the time, the next time I'm in town I would look at staying at the Grand Hotel Miramare, a 5 star hotel with incredible views and known for its impeccable service. Since this past visit, I have had the chance to meet with their sales staff, and would be happy to reach out on your behalf.
Santa Margherita Ligure looked almost as charming as its more famous neighbor, and definitely has more tourist amenities. This portion of the Italian Riviera really has something for everyone, and is a place we'd definitely return to in the future.
Finally, it was time to leave the Italian Riviera and head back to our origins, the French Riviera and Nice.
Fortunately, the drive back through this portion of the Ligurian coast offers stunning views that sold us on the idea of returning here someday.
Whether your dreams of the Italian Riviera include the strong summer sun or a milder winter getaway, Portofino and its environs offer stunning views, charming communities and all of the quintessential Mediterranean vibes you could ever hope for.
Ready to Explore?
Did you know I am also a travel advisor who has traveled extensively in Europe as well as planned unforgettable trips to there as well? To learn more about me and some of my services, visit my business website, On Voyage Luxury Travel Advising.
If you're looking to visit Portofino or the Italian Riviera, allow me to help plan your next trip. Many of links shared throughout the post are linked to my own personal Virtuoso booking page, where you can access my advisor perks whether you reach out to me or not. Note that I will earn a small commission if you do book through those links without any extra cost to you.
Portofino Details
Portofino is located on a small peninsula along the Ligurian coastline, quietly tucked away from prying eyes. It's a charming little village, but do note that it is a very little village with limited parking. We parked in the town's adequate parking garage, but on a busy summer day, I imagine there's limited space. You can easily see why visiting by boat is preferable.
If you do visit during the winter, you'll find the town pretty empty with a lot of storefronts closed, especially the luxury shops. You'll also find the town nearly all to yourself, which was pretty charming. I can't speak to the craziness that I'm sure the summers bring, but if you can find yourself here in the off season, enjoy the beautiful vistas, but don't expect the full experience.
From our hotel on the eastern side of Genoa, the drive took about 45 minutes or so. I would happily go back and spend more time in some of the smaller towns such as Recco and Santa Margherita Ligure just to soak up the vibes. Overall, it's worth the day trip from the city to enjoy the slower pace of life.
Day of travel: December 14th, 2023
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